Heart2Heart Challenge - Techniques

This week at the H2H Challenge blog, they asked the question, "What technique inspires you?" For me, that's "Rock-n-Roll" stamping, without question. It's a technique that is SO easy with the Close to My Heart Acrylix stamps and the effect is awesome!

On my entry, I used a retired stamp set that I just can't part with, called "Skeleton Leaves," but the technique is easier to see with my sample pictures using another retired set, called "Nature's Vein."

First, I stamped my image in a light color; I used Creme Brulee'. Then, after cleaning my stamp off, I used Bamboo to restamp the image, but this time I rocked the edges of the stamp into the ink. I made a point to leave the center of the image clean of this new color and also "rolled" the stamp so that as the ink got closer to the center, there was less of it. I stamped it directly on top of the first image, giving my artwork a slight two-toned effect. It harder to see in the pictures, but there was a definite "glow" to the center of the leaf.

After cleaning the stamp again, I used Smokey Plum for the final accents. I used the same method of rocking and rolling the stamp into the ink, but this time my goal was to collect just a little of the edges of the stamp.


Here is another example using the "Skeleton Leaves" stamp set. On this one, I used Sunflower ink as the first stamp, Autumn Terra Cotta as the second stamp and Cranberry as the final one. I love how this techniques creates a finished image!

Happy St. Patrick's Day!

I got a sweet card from Cynthia. She is such a gem! And this card is - yes - stinkin' cute! Notice the brads and the shamrocks match perfectly. I just LOVE that about Close to My Heart things. The papers are the exact color of the inks and thoroughly match the accents and markers as well. Even the design paper (we call them Background & Texture papers or B&Ts) has the same colors so that everything matches perfectly. No hunting around for paper that comes close!

The shamrocks also use our sparkles in the center. Oh and around the edge, that's not actual sewing that you see. That is a stamp from the set called, "Simple Stitches" and you can see it by clicking on the highlighted name. It has other stitches, as well, like the zigzag stitch, and a couple of sentiments including: "I'm sew happy!" You can't tell it from the view, but the little man and the sentiment are both raised - the sentiment higher than the man - using 3d foam squares or pop dots. It's also a little hard to tell, but the little man looks like he was colored with chalks or water-color pencils. Especially on the pants, it looks like a blending pen or water brush were used to create a faded look. Cynthia is quite the artist with this technique. Do you notice how the man's hat is darker along the bottom and has a lighter color (almost like a shine) along the upper part of the brim? I'm thoroughly impressed and grateful for such a talented friend who doesn't mind me sharing her expertise!

Letter Layouts

Carmela made this set of layouts. I made one like it years ago, so while I'm not sure how she did it, I can tell you how I did.

First I cut out my letters on white cardstock. I made sure they could fit on my pages the way I wanted them to before I attached any pictures to them.

Then I got out all of my pictures. I chose the ones I wanted to highlight and put them on the top and in the middle of the layout. I filled in the pictures on the cardstock letters, making sure the parts of the pictures that were the most important were completely ON the cardstock letters. Once I filled up the letters with my pictures, completely covering all the cardstock, I cut off all of the excess photo pieces. (That's why it's important to make sure the the parts of the pictures you want the most are COMPLETELY on the cardstock.) After cutting out the letters just the way I wanted them, I matted the letters on another piece of cardstock, a LITTLE bigger than the photo letters. To do this, I adhered the photo letters to a piece of cardstock, then trimmed around the letters about an 8th of an inch from the photo letters, to make a border.

Twitterpated Workshop - Layout #3

This is the third and final layout from my workshop - well, except for the one included in the instruction booklet. By the way, didn't you LOVE what they did with the ribbon in that layout??? But I digress. For this one, as for the others, don't adhere your pieces until you've completed your distressing. At first, just lay them on the bases. Use Sorbet card stock for these bases and your pieces should all be labeled #3L for the left page or #3R for the right page.

For the left page, lay the 9 x 3 green print at the bottom left edge of the paper. Add the 3 x 3 square of the tree trunk paper above that 9 x 3 piece. Lay the 1-inch striped strip next to these two pieces. My stripes go up and down, but yours, if you cut them according to my instructions, should go short ways across the paper. (I regreted the way mine looked, and used less paper this way!) Next to the striped strip, add the 4 1/2 x 4 inch tree trunk piece to the bottom edge of the page. Put the 6 x 8 green print directly above that, making an open space that measures 4 x 4 along the bottom right corner.

On the right hand page, lay the 10 1/2 x 8 inch tree trunk sheet flush against the bottom edge and 1/2 inch from the left edge. The striped strip lays across that about 1 1/2 inches from the bottom edge. **Note! Even when you're ready to adhere all the pieces down, only adhere the outside edges of this strip so you can slip your picture underneath it later!** The 7 x 3 inch green piece lays evenly between the tree trunk paper and the right edge and equi-distance from the top edge. The final green print piece (measuring 3 x 2 1/2) goes flush against the top edge of the base and about 1/2 inch from the left edge of the tree trunk paper.

This double carries a LOT of embellishments and techniques. First, I used a sponge dauber on all of the paper pieces of this layout with Sorbet ink. It gives a soft edge to the paper as you can see on the tree trunk and green print paper to the left. Also to the left, you can see the branch "button" (actually a chipboard accent from the Dimensional Elements Organic collection) that I added at the end of a ribbon border I used across the left page, from the right edge (Actually, I wrapped it around the edge and secured it at the back.) to the tree trunk paper. I used about 10 inches in all. I also added some Colonial White brads from the Basic Brad collection to this "button" to give a different look.


I did the same with the other branch "button" on the right hand side of the page, but in this photo, my distressing of the base page shows up really well! While I used a sponge dauber on the paper pieces, I used the direct method on my base pages. I scrap the corner edge of the stamp pad directly across the edge of the paper, leaving it with little points and lines. Usually the corners get a thicker layer of it. I used this method on the two sides of each paper, but at the tops and bottoms, I ran the stamp pad along the edge long ways so that the texture wouldn't cross and the lines would all go the same direction. It took a while for me to perfect this technique (well, perfect is a very LOOSE translation for what I do) but I kept playing with it on scrap cardstock (it doesn't work as well on paper) until I got the effect I was looking for.

Twitterpated Workshop - Layout #2

This is Layout #2 of my workshop. As with the previous post, set out your design first. That gives you a chance to distress your papers as you choose. Then adhere them to the bases. In this case, the bases are Colonial White cardstock sheets. As in the last case, your cut pieces are labeled. This time they will say #2L or R for the left or right sides of the layout.

First, set your 2-inch polka dot strip along the bottom edge of the left base. Directly about that is one of the plaid 6 x 12 sheets and the 5 x 5 chocolate card stock square goes on the left side of that, about 1/2 inch from the left edge. Above the plaid is the 4 x 3 tree trunk piece. The 1 x 9 tree trunk strip lays across the top open space from the right edge. Above that, I kept with the square theme and placed the back side of a 3 x 3 square from the tree trunk paper at the end of that strip. I think I'm going to exchange it for a square of polka dot paper, though. Finally, the 3 1/2 x 1 inch cardstock strip goes near the bottom of the base, against the left edge.

On the right side, the 1-inch polka dot strip sits along the right edge. The 1-inch tree trunk strip lies next to it, followed by the other 6-inch plaid sheet. The last tree trunk piece, a 4 x 4 square, goes at the top left corner of the base. The 2 x 4 polka dot piece goes in the bottom left corner, and the final 5 1/2 x 1 inch brown cardstock strip lies about 1 1/2 inch from the top, flush on the right edge of the base.


Before I laid all these pieces down permanently, I distressed them with chocolate ink. This time I used a "direct" method, brushing the stamp pad directly across the edge of the paper. It made stronger definition to the distress instead of the softer edge applied by the sponge dauber.

Also, I designed the open spots of my bases. After laying out the pieces, I could see that there would be two large open areas and I chose to decorate them with inks that matched the set and one of the stamps that came with this set. I used the stipple brush from my distressing kit to apply first Chocolate, then Sorbet ink. The effect was very subtle, but it really popped when I added randomly stamped leaves using Sweet Leaf ink.




I added all the mushroom "buttons" (actually chipboard accents from the Dimensional Elements Organic collection) to this layout. As you can see, I sewed hemp through the two smaller ones, tying them in knots at the back, just to give them an accent. The larger one, I stitched with the ribbon that came with the Twitterpated workshop kit. As with my other bows, I added just a touch of Liquid Glass to the knot to make sure it holds. You can also see in this picture (if you look really close) that I dotted all the dots with Liquid Glass, too. It makes a raised texture that shows easily when your looking at the page (rather than a digital image).

Twitterpated Workshop - Layout #1

Some of the gals who got this kit were unable to actually attend my workshop this evening, so I'm posting many of the instructions in the next few posts. This post will give the directions for laying out my #1 double. In subsequent posts, you'll find the directions for my #2 and #3 doubles. Finally, in my last post, you'll find my cutting instructions for all 3 designs. The advertised layout (in the previous post) is part of the workshop kit from CTMH and there are step by step instructions for it (as well as tips and techniques) in the full-color pamphlet. If you don't have your Twitterpated Workshop on the Go kit, visit my website, click on the "Workshops on the Go" link and order yours!

I know I still need some titles on these babies, and I know exactly what I'm going to do with them, but I just haven't gotten to that point yet.

This is layout #1. If you already got your papers all cut, you labeled them #1L for #1 left and #1R for #1 right. I always have my attendees lay out their designs without sticking them down, so they can go back and distress as they see fit. Do that here, as there will be distressing techniques later in the post. Use the two pieces of Sweet Leaf card stock as the bases for these layouts.

For the left layout, the green 8 x 8 print goes in the bottom left corner. The other 1-inch striped strip lies along its top border. The final 4 x 8 acorn paper (with the lines going across the paper short ways) sits about 1 inch below the striped strip and flush with the right edge of the base.


On the right page, the 4 x 8 acorn paper that has the lines running long ways on the paper sits about 2 inches from the right edge and flush with the bottom. The 4 x 8 green print butts against it, about 2 inches from the left edge and flush with the top. Then one of the 1-inch striped strips lies over the acorn paper about 2 inches from the bottom.

Now, before I stuck anything down, I distressed it all thoroughly. On this layout, I used Chocolate ink and a sponge dauber from my distressing kit to add a soft edge to every piece of this layout. I edge it all the way around both bases, too, as you can see in this close up view.

Once I edge all the paper, I went ahead and adhered it together. Then, again using Chocolate, I stamped the little branch image that came with the kit (Don't you LOVE getting a matching stamp set with these workshops!) so that it "sat" on top of the striped strip. I used glue dots to strongly adhere the acorn "buttons" (again part of the Dimensional Elements Organic collection) to the "tree." I used my paper piercing set to make holes and then sew the hemp through the button holes. In retrospect, I probably won't use the glue dots again for this. It made my paper piercing tool and my needle terribly sticky. Anyway, I tied a bow over the largest acorn button and tied knots in the back of the smaller ones, just to give them an accent without being overwhelming.


I have every intention of attaching a journaling tag under this brown button on the right side layout. By the way, I tied a hemp bow around this "button." (It is actually a chipboard accent from the Dimensional Elements Organic collection.) In order to assure that it wouldn't come undone, I put a tiny dot of Liquid glass right where the lines come together to form the knot in the center.

Titling Technique

Dimensional Elements have become my favorite embellishment. (Remember, I'm embellishment-challenged!) These are SO easy to use and make quite a statement!

I colored all of these with ink, but in different ways. The flat frames for the S and the A, I inked directly from the stamp pad, swirling it on in a circular motion. It took on some of the texture from the chipboard, making a neat pattern. For the N and S, I used reinker in a little Ceramicoat. This created an even, smooth look to the letter and made a great accent against the mottled look of the larger letters. I used a sponge for the r, t, c, and I. On the c, I sponged it several times to make sure it had a darker appearance.

You can easily cover the Dimensional Elements with paper, too. I'll show you in a future post! If you haven't tried using some of these, do! They are great!

Double-Triple Layout - 4

I use the Double-Triple (double layout, with 3 decorated pages for each) when I have an event with a LOT of pictures - like my son's football season - but I don't want to make a bunch of extra pages.

Another trick I use to display a lot of pictures without making too many pages is shown here. I get acid free clear envelopes and stack them to make a little flip file.

Close to My Heart now has their own version of this with the new "Flip Flaps". They can flip up and down or sideways and will hold two 4 x 6 pictures.

Finishing the Folio Layouts

I wanted to revisit this because I've gotten some questions about it. I hope this clears it up enough for you to make a triple-double set of your own. Oh, and if you do - I want to see it!

Basically, the 1-2-3 layout is really just 3 different double layouts using the same paper pack and two of the CTMH folios. I used the bulk “Game On” package for the background star paper for each layout and added the stripe as accents as well as red and blue (Cranberry and Moonstruck) cardstock.

Once I put the layouts onto the star paper, I then mounted the star paper onto the folios. They need to be “upside-down,” like a tent, instead of like a file folder. First, the layouts are mounted on the inside of the folios (opened). Then, you can slip the un-notched sides (which should be the BOTTOMS of your lower layouts) into the page protectors of your album. Close the folios and mount the last two layouts onto the outside.

To protect the outside of the layouts, I use two more page protectors. These have to be adjusted to fit correctly. First, I cut off the 3-holed strip, cutting between the holes and the edge of the pocket that looks like its sewn. Then I cut a 3 inch opening for the notch at the bottom of the protector – just a slit in it. Finally, to make it fit correctly, I cut a 1-inch strip off of the top of the page protector (the opened part).

Hope this helps! Please send me a picture if you decide to make a layout of your own. I’d love to see it! (And post it!)

Final Vellum Techniques

For the last example, I made soft folds in the vellum, rather than the hard ones that I used when I made the stained glass look. I rubbed them with a Moonstruck stamp pad on the front of the vellum and stamped the dolphin image on the back of the vellum. After the dolphins were dry, I highlighted them with water-color pencils in gray and blue and smeared them with a water brush pen. I completed the waterish look by tearing the vellum and distressing the edge, also with Moonstruck ink. To complete the artwork, I placed the stamped vellum over a cardstock with the stamped image of the whales.

More Vellum Techniques

Stamping with vellum can lead to perfectly ingenius designs. I flat-out LOVE the dolphin picture in the second example. I did something like it using a snowman on some cards I made this last Christmas. To create this effect, you'll use some appropriate stamp (something that would go with water or ice, or you could even use letters). Stamp the image at the top half of the card - onto the cardstock base. Stamp the image again on the bottom side of the vellum (stamp it and turn the vellum over after it is totally dry) to make the mirror appearance. For the dolphins, I enhanced the vellum by "painting" with the water brush using Outdoor Denim ink on the NON-STAMPED side of the vellum and, after tearing the edge of the vellum, distressing that edge with the same Outdoor Denim inkpad.

Vellum Techniques

I love using vellum on my layouts and on cards and years ago, I even taught a workshop on the techniques that can be used with it. It can be a little tricky, but I have some tricks to working with it.

• Use it as your medium for journaling. You can write on it, allowing plenty of drying time, or just print your journaling out onto it from your computer. Vellum sheets will go in most printers just like regular paper.


• Adhering vellum to your project can be the trickiest of all! If I have paper on my vellum like in the example, I'll adhere the vellum to the base using Mono-adhesive right under the paper. If there isn't any paper on the top of the vellum, I'll use another method of connecting the vellum because I just haven't found an adhesive that doesn't show through. I often use brads or eyelets in the corners or use something of the same in the middle and incorporate it into my design. As a last resort, I'll use the tiniest of dots of Liquid Glass to adhere the vellum and then put another on the top of the vellum as decoration.
  


• Make sharp random folds in it to give your artwork a stained glass effect like you can see in the example. You can even color the different sections with markers, intensifying the effect. Chalk or "paint" with a water pen dipped in ink for a more transparent look to the color. CTMH sells several stamps with a stained glass feel too them. Stamping them in black on the top of the vellum after coloring the bottom of the vellum completes the stained glass picture.

Monogram Embellishment

I started with the Dimensional Element Monogram M and cut out the a square around one of the letters. First, I inked up the chipboard top. Then, I adhered the negative image to my design paper and then I filled the empty space where the letter had been with a light coating of Liquid Glass. It takes a couple of hours to allow the Liquid Glass to dry, but it makes a great embellishment went it is through.

This paper is from the new Key to My Heart paper pack exclusively available this month (January 09). It is sold with a GIANT stamp set offering beautiful coordinating designs. You can view the whole set and even order it by clicking the link at the pictures.

10-from-1 Cards

While this is a fun way to get kids involved in stamping, there really is a right way to do it in order to get a balanced, well-designed page. Star with the largest stamp you plan to use. Stamp them in triangles around the page. Look at the first picture. Notice how the maple leaves in the top right quadrant form a triangle? The bottom three form another triangle, but they aren't exactly the same. If you stamp them all just alike (with equa-distance and similar angles between them) you'll end up with a page that is TOO designed. It will look too patterned and not random enough. Make sure to stamp right off the edge of the paper as well (have scratch paper underneath) to give your paper a look of continuity.

Once you add your large items, fill in with smaller images and tighter triangles. Be sure to rotate your stamp when you make the impressions so they don't all look alike. If you don't have markedly large stamps, you can still get a great look with the smaller stamps. You can stop at this point, and have a loosely stamped page. Just make sure you have enough of the paper stamped so that every small section you will cut (not less than 1x1 inches) has at least part of 1 or 2 images. If you have too much blank space on the paper, it will not work for this project.

In my opinion, the more the merrier! I love the way the paper looks when I fill it entirely with different images. The less white paper that shows through, the better I like it. It also means I don't have to worry about how or where I cut my paper since all of it is designed.

Once I decorate my paper, I cut it along with 2 coordinating cardstocks to design the cards. I used the CTMH Originals Card Confidence program to design the cards and I change them everytime I make them. Often by the time I get to the 9th or 10th card, I have to get a little creative and adapt the design I want to whatever paper I have left. All of the blank places that you see on these cards were filled with sentiment stamps or artwork (mostly sentiments). I also added brads, ribbon, and some "Just Blooms" leaves to the final cards. Usually I use Cranberry, Autumn Terra Cotta, Garden Green, and Desert Sand with my Autumn cards, but I thought it might be fun to try them with some non-traditional colors. I like the way they turned out, but I do prefer the richer colors that I normally use.

Tuesday Technique

This card is one of the ones I plan to offer at my card-making workshop in October. (See my plans here.) It uses one of my favorite techniques, although I don't know if there is an official name for it.

I used the new "The Season Defined" stamp set that includes some larger words and also definitions of those words in smaller print. I stamped the definitions as the base on this card in twilight and then added the larger words (love this font!) in Outdoor Denim on top of the definitions.

BTW, the snowflake paper is from the new "Aspen" paper pack - my newest favorite!

I tried this technique last year as well, using the words from the "Christmas Scripts" stamp set as the background of the card. I stamped it in the same color as the paper to add a kind of watermark to the card and then added the artwork on top of it. I really liked the variety of fonts and sizes in that stamp set and every project looked totally different.

Box-making

In getting ready for my retreat this weekend, I've had to skip a few days of posts - but I want to make up for it.

These instructions are for a box, but I want to tell you ahead of time that I have never made them with cardstock before this time and I wouldn't advise it for you. This box can fit 2 Hershey's kisses perfectly. I'm using it for "pillow chocolates" for my retreaters.

You will need to start with a 5x6" rectangle. Score the 5" side at every inch and score the 6" side at all but the center inch (score at 1, 2, 4, 5 inches). Your rectangle will eventually look like the one below, but it will take some cutting. I'm going to start in the top, left-hand section of this image. First, along the 6" side, cut at the first score mark going in 2 inches. Then cut at the second score mark going in 1 inch. Cut the score line between those two cuts, removing a 1-inch square. (Picture the image as a grid. Each column is labeled with a letter and each row is labeled with a number. You just removed the grid square at 2A.) The final cut in this "quandrant" (that is, this quarter of the image) is along the second scored line on the 5" side. In the image below, you're making the little flap under my thumbnail. You've already cut the top and left side of it with your first few cuts, now you need to cut the right side of it.

Rotate your rectangle (or what is left of it) 180 degrees and repeat the cuts from above on the diagonally opposite corner. Then flip your project upside down and complete the other two corners. All of them should look alike.

Once you have made the primary cuts, you will want to do a little trimming on them. You can see from both the images that the top of the "flap" has been trimmed about 1/8 inch. If you hold your project so that the 5" sides are the top and bottom, the left corner "flap" is at grid square 2B. I also trimmed about the same amount from either end of the long flaps across the top and bottom of the project. Finally, I trimmed the same on both sides of the 2" (non-scored) center sections on the right and left of the project. You can see me doing that part in that second cutting picture.

Once your cuts are made, you need to fold all of the scores. All of them fold inward, except the top and bottom long flaps. They will fold backward as shown in this folding picture. You can see that the top inch is folded inward, but the side flaps both fold backward. The same is done on the bottom.

Now to put the box together, start on the top. Push the side flaps (the short ones at 2B and 2D) to the inside of the inch square at 2C. Fold 1C (the center inch with the 2 long flaps attached to it) over the short flaps. The long flaps will follow; tuck them in to the long sides of your box. Do the same thing on the bottom of the box. You may have to do a little more trimming if some of the sides don't want to fold all the way in.

Once you finish with the top and bottom, the two sides are easy. You will want to put adhesive on both flaps before you fold them in. Mine still had a tendancy to pull out a little since I didn't use any adhesive on the long flaps, but once I put in the candy, there was no problem at all.

This will complete your box bottom. You can cover it a couple of ways. You can make a matchbox slide for it which would require another piece of paper measuring 5 x 2. Basically wrap the paper around it and impress the corners on it. Overlap the last 2 almost-inches and adhere them together.

You can also cover it with another box, but this one is more light weight. I don't have pictures of this one so I'll save it for next week! :-)

Midweek Makeover

Vicki Churchill is a talented artist! I'm feeling inspired. This card is truly beautiful; you can see it here. The website Url is http://www.vickiscardmakingideas.com/.




This is my version of her card. I made an adjustment to the size of the card. Mine is 4 1/4 x 5 1/2 inches. I also didn't want to put a sentiment on mine. I like to use my cards as notecards, often without sentiments on the front. I may change my mind on this one, so I did leave an spot where I could put one if I want to.

I used Barn Red ink on "Skeleton Leaves" stamp set for the border around all edges of the card. The cream colored paper in the middle is a B&T from Paper Garden paper pack and the stamps were from the set called, "Nature's Vein" using Bamboo, Petal and Garnet on the left hand leaf, and Honey, Cranberry, and Barn Red on the right hand leaf. I edged the paper with Garnet and finished the card off with a "Autumn Leaf" button. (I love those!)

Try It Thursday

Using a coluzzle doesn't have to be a scary thing. It can take a little practice with some of the more intricate templates, but the effect is well worth it. I'm just doing a simple lesson here, covering the basics. You will need the coluzzle blade, a template (I'm using the circle template) and a cutting mat. Don't try to use any other mat except the one specifically for Coluzzle. I made the mistake of thinking that any cutting mat would do just fine - BIG MISTAKE! (Ruined blade and ruined project!)



There is a front and back to the blade. The curved edge is the BACK of the blade. The front (leading/cutting) side is the straight, slanted edge. (In the picture, the leading side of the blade is pointing down.) When you place the blade in the template, put the back of it up against one of the connected edges to start. Make sure the blade is perpendicular to the template. You don't hold it like you would a pen or pencil. Slide the blade around the template. If yours has corners, there is a trick to them. Just life the blade ever so slightly as you get to the corner and go slowly. Often it will make the turn without requiring you to pull it all the way out.



Once you have completed your tracing of the template, it only takes a few snips with the scissors to have a finished product.

It's important not to get any nicks in your template. They keep the blade from moving freely around the design. If you do get a nick or slice, try filing it down with an emory board. That has worked on a couple of my templates, but not all of them. The ones where I was the most reckless had little hope of repair.

I'd love to see how you are using your Coluzzle!
:-)

Tuesday Technique

We're going to keep working on the project that I started last Tuesday. Last week, we roughed up a stamped red cardstock and tore all the edges. This time, we have a cardstock of the same color, but 1 1/2 inches wider and longer. When we're done with this, it will look like a mitered frame, but to start you will need to cut the cardstock horizontal, from corner to corner. Once cut, hold the pieces together and cut it again across the other two corners.


This will make 4 symmetrical sections to your rectangle.



You'll need to have coarse sand paper for the next section. You will sand each of the sections separately. The top and the bottom should be sanded from right to left across the hypotenus (large edge) of the triangle. The two sides of the rectangle should be sanded from the base, directly across the cardstock. Be sure you don't sand from the outside corners to the center corner!



















Use a white piece of cardstock that is exactly the same size as the red piece you are working on. Using your Tombow adhesive, spread a line of glue on each outside edge of the card with a cross down the middle.





Place your rectangle pieces on the white cardstock, meeting all the sides evenly.
When you are finished, and put your rectangle together, all the sanding lines should be going the same way.





Please excuse the 2 or 3 lines on the right side of this piece. It was the first piece I sanded and I accidentally sanded toward the point instead of directly across the cardstock.





The finished product is below. I used the Birthday Bash and the Card Sentiments stamp sets to complete the card.